A new king of sportswear, Grunge Redux and the New York look – WWD

New York Fashion Week may have lacked ideas, but it lacked new talent. And given that COVID-19 is not over, that the designer collections came together was a miracle, more so this season than any other.

“Entire factories have been wiped out by COVID[-19]”, lamented the president of Carolina Herrera, Emilie Rubinfeld, of the unprecedented challenges.

“We had to carry most of our samples by hand,” Ulla Johnson said of weather and shipping issues that prompted her staff to rack up their own frequent flyer miles.

Still, there was a sense of joy in coming together as an industry, although some designers broke away from the fray to show in March and April.

“We’ve been so apart for so long, it’s good to see a renewed commitment to celebrating the city and the power of our collective voice,” Johnson said.

One of the things the absence of Tom Ford, Thom Browne, Ralph Lauren and others did was give emerging designers room to shine, making Peter Do, LaQuan Smith, Khaite and many more others the new American style movers.

And it was easier to travel to see them this season, thanks to the CFDA’s improved schedule. But the atmosphere at IMG’s Spring Studios hub was B-list at best, with the crowd funneled through the sponsor area to the doors, creating a palpable lounge vibe. (Exit by the gift shop!) It’s also worth noting that there was no automotive sponsor this season, suggesting brands may see less ROI from New York Fashion Week.

Shows at locations around town had more flavor, whether it was 25-story-tall Tory Burch against the backdrop of the neon sign of the New Yorker Hotel she helped restore, Johnson at Astor Hall at the New York Public Library or Eckhaus Latta at the abandoned Essex Street Market. (It also made for better photos.)

When there was an element of surprise, so much the better. Smith’s casting of Julia Fox as a headliner is an example of this, Collina Strada’s greening of “The Hills” with a send off of the reality TV show called “The Collinas” starring Tommy Dorfman, was one example. another.

Here are the takeaways of the fall season in New York.

New king of sportswear

There’s a new guard in New York, and no one has made it more obvious than LaQuan Smith. Working with stylist Rihanna Mel Ottenberg, Smith has refined her collection, now designing it in a sportswear aesthetic similar to that of Michael Kors, but with a sexier edge. The two showed off skimpy miniskirts and draped dresses under mega outerwear, but Smith partied hard, enlisting Julia Fox to open her show in a revenge dress. Even with Miguel warming up the crowd, and Blake Lively, Brooke Shields and other celebs front row, Kors’ show seemed more low-key by comparison, despite earning the top spot in social engagement.

LaQuan Smith, Fall 2022
Rodin Banica/WWD

Trendy outdoor and indoor clothing

A Big Bird yellow knitted shearling at Kors, a red patent maxi coat at Smith, printed puffer jackets at Collina Strada, oversized leather tops at Khaite and Do – the designers are betting big that women will want a coat wardrobe at home. ‘fall. And with 30-degree temperature swings like New York’s this weekend, they might just need it.

What’s underneath? Well, the skinnier the better, and the corset is the bra top of the fall season. Corseted dresses at Carolina Herrera, lace dresses at Dion Lee and knit waist cinchers on tailored pieces at Proenza Schouler were highlights.

Carolina Herrera RTW Fall 2022

Carolina Herrera, Fall 2022
George Chinsee for WWD

geometry lesson

New York is in the midst of a knitwear renaissance, from Victor Glemaud’s form-fitting styles to Tory Burch’s stunning finale with graphic color-block knit dresses. Graphic effects using stripes of color were a theme, more so than prints.

A Mackie in the making

The level of craftsmanship and daring of Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg’s Area brand hit a new high with the Spring 2022 collection they showcased in their Chinatown atelier. Their flair for feathers, hardcore embroidery and shifting silhouettes brought to mind greats like Bob Mackie and Thierry Mugler. Someone gives them a residence in Vegas to dress up.

Redux Deconstruction

“It hasn’t been the easiest the last few years…and there’s so much going on that fancy clothes seem trivial,” said Zoe Latta, telling the hard truth after the fabulous 10th anniversary show Eckhaus Latta. The designers, humbled to still be on the scene at the end of the decade, said they deliberately didn’t want to do anything that looked too polished. They weren’t alone – gritty, grungy, “Mad Max” or Scorsese, the deconstructed look was a counterpoint to so much faux fur and flash.

Parade at Eckhaus Latta RTW Fall 2022 on February 12, 2022 in New York City.

Runway at Eckhaus Latta, Fall 2022, on Feb. 12, 2022, in New York City.
Masato Onoda for WWD

New talents, but who will break through?

Launching a label is one thing, but staying in business is another. As for emerging names, Saint Sintra’s twisted suit and emo dresses, Connor McKnight’s outdoor and workwear, and Colin LoCascio’s patchwork all stuck with me this week. Interior NYC by Jack Miner and Lily Miesmer also has a good chance of succeeding. For one, Miesmer is Tory Burch’s niece and Cate Holstein is a mentor. Miesmer also talks about a good game and has a quirky sense of fun. During his presentation, a dystopian dinner party at the Waverly Inn, I could have listened for hours to him talk about his cinematic inspirations (“‘Waterworld,’ it’s a shitty movie but the costumes are amazing,” he said. she said).

Interior RTW Fall 2022

Interior, fall 2022
Courtesy of Inside

Style = Substance

Whether in the name of sustainability and waste prevention, or an effort to promote style over trends, several designers mentioned wanting their customers to play with and get the most out of their clothes. “People always think they have to buy new things because they don’t know how to wear what’s in their wardrobe,” said Peter Do, whose stellar collection was called “Foundations.” . Many women need to learn.

Khaite RTW Fall 2022

Khaite, fall 2022
HANNA TVEITE/Courtesy of Khaite

The New York look

The New York look has been talked about a lot this season – Michael Kors said it’s ‘all about stride’, Prabal Gurung defined it as resilience, Tory Burch associated it with iconic photos of individualism of Bill Cunningham that echo in the streets today. “We all come here looking for something,” Cate Holstein said of drawing inspiration from strong women like Jerry Hall arriving on a bus from Texas and succeeding.

The New York look is also about diversity, with more up-and-coming color designers in fashion than ever before. It is now up to the industry to help promote them so they can stay there.

Judy Turner RTW Fall 2022

Judy Turner, Fall 2022
George Chinsee/WWD

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