NEW YORK – With Katie Holmes and Lil ‘Kim in the front row and singer Marina at the mic above his runway, Christian Siriano helped kick off the first major pandemic series of New York Fashion Week in-person shows on Tuesday with a burst of neon and lace inspired in part by all the Italian women in her life.
From the ornate Gotham Hall, under a 70-foot-high stained-glass skylight, Siriano’s commitment to waist inclusiveness has never been stronger as he opened and closed the show with the model d plus size escape Precious Lee. She first walked in a gorgeous yellow pantsuit with wide, baggy pants and an asymmetric jacket, a matching cropped bra underneath.
His crowd has been reduced to 300 from his usual 800 guests due to the pandemic, Siriano told The Associated Press he wants to bring glamor into today’s dark times. He returned in a few glances to old photographs of his paternal grandmother vacationing in Positano on the Amalfi Coast in Italy in the 1960s and 1970s. He put vintage sunglasses on some of his models as they strutted in bright yellows, sunset oranges and emerald green dresses and dresses with huge ruffles for the sleeves and bulbous skirts.
“Fashion Week is back. It’s so nice. New York is feeling great,” said Siriano, with Kristin Chenoweth, Alicia Silverstone and muse Coco Rocha also in the front row.
The pandemic, he said, has caused fits of nostalgia for many, including himself. He remembered an apricot polka dot dress among his grandmother’s favorites.
“She’s still alive at 101,” Siriano said. “I just felt that and it has the glamor that I love. I was surrounded by women who dressed everyday. It was lipstick. It was everyday hair and makeup.”
He wanted this spring-summer collection to be “very strong and powerful”, but also sexy.
There were barely there black lace looks, tiny bra tops paired with loose pants and skirts, and bodycon dresses with cutouts from neck to calf. As Marina sang from a platform at the end of the catwalk, models of all sizes also paraded in classic black and white evening looks, including one-shoulder dresses with a single long sleeve and a belly slice. bare. Other looks were adorned with vertical rows of feathers.
“I love it. I miss it,” he said of his touch of drama and yesteryear glamor. “I think that’s also what people lack in fashion. We have friends going, like, a birthday party and they want a dress. It’s so interesting to see what we were missing.”
Fashion, said Siriano, “is in a very difficult situation” right now.
“Business is really struggling everywhere. It’s nowhere near what people used to buy. But luckily, for our world, people are really looking for this ambitious coin. They are spending more than ever on it. . My best friend just got married. She called off her wedding three times. I made her the biggest dress I could make for her. She wanted it. She’s a round pregnant girl, and she was like, I m ‘cares. “
Associated Press video producer Gina Abdy in New York contributed to this story