Kenzo returns to Galerie Vivienne for Nigo’s A/W 2022 show

Kenzo returns to Galerie Vivienne for Nigo’s first Fall/Winter 2022 show

For his first Kenzo A/W 2022 show, the brand’s new creative director, Nigo, chose Paris’s Galerie Vivienne, the location of founder Kenzo Takada’s first boutique.

When Kenzo Takada opened his first store in Paris in 1970 – after moving from Japan to the French capital – he chose the Galerie Vivienne, one of the city’s most iconic 19th-century covered galleries, as his location. The boutique ushered in a liberated, Oriental-influenced exuberance of the conservative echelons of French fashion – then more associated with the gilded salons of Place Vendôme – that abounded in exuberant floral prints, unrestricted kimono shapes and a color wheel of materials. Reflecting his love of nature, Takada baptizes his first boutique Jungle Jap and paints his walls with scenes inspired by the paintings of Henri Rousseau. The dream (1910). “Opening the store brought a certain freedom and an offbeat aesthetic,” he explained in the 2019 monograph. Kenzo Takada, published by ACC Books.

In 1970, Takada also organized his first fashion show in his Galerie Vivienne boutique. Now the brand’s new creative director, Nigo – streetwear supremo, musician, founder of Tokyo-based A Bathing Ape and co-founder of the Billionaire Boys Club, the first Japanese designer since Takada to take over the creative direction of the brand, and another graduate of Tokyo’s Bunka Fashion College – gave a nod to that history by staging his first A/W 2022 show for Kenzo in the historic glass and steel enclaves of Galerie Vivienne.

The focus here has been on clothes, as guests – including Kanye West, Billionaire Boys Club co-founder Pharrell Williams, and designer Tyler (who also feature on Nigo’s upcoming album I know Nigo) – sitting on simple wooden folding chairs that lined the arcade of the Galerie Vivienne. For A/W 2022, Nigo’s silhouettes, anchored in an authentic “real to wear” wardrobe, recalled the designer’s adolescence in 1980s Japan, who reveled in the revival of 1950s Americana. , amplified by post-WWII ties to American culture. This translated into laid-back, carefree looks that blended sportswear, workwear and suits, drew inspiration from traditional Japanese uniform and 1980s British subcultural styles, and celebrated patterns synonymous with the house, such as the tiger, and floral motifs, such as blue and red pansies and colorful bouquets.

AlphaTauri Mobile Innovation Lab at Pitti Uomo 101

Think pinstripe suits layered over flat kimono-like wool jackets inspired by Japanese potters’ uniforms, colorful American college knit vests paired with high-waisted pants and chunky lion-head belts, shirts pansy-print bowling pants with flared skirts, padded motocross gloves and chunky Chelsea boots, and dark or faded Japanese denim overalls that looked like utilitarian overalls layered over shirts. Varsity jackets nodded to the dress codes of young Americans, which have long inspired Japanese style (and can still be found in vintage shops around town), Prince of Wales check suits, Harris overcoats Tweed, parkas and striped scarves nodded to British Mod style, while the apron-like garments referenced the collapsible silhouettes worn in traditional tea ceremonies. The concept of “impractical workwear” translated into chukka boots and floral print workwear. Hats were sported with almost every look, including berets, cycling caps and field caps.

Where Kenzo Takada forged his first path in French fashion, Nigo – whose Kenzo A/W 2022 show was his first show – charted the brand’s future. It’s bright, bold, decade-spanning, and grounded in reality. §

Kenzo Nigo A/W 2022 fashion show Galerie Vivienne

Kenzo Nigo A/W 2022 fashion show

AlphaTauri Mobile Innovation Lab at Pitti Uomo 101

About Adam Motte

Check Also

Balmain Unicorn Luxury Sneaker Release Date

Over the past 50 years, some of the world’s most influential luxury brands have launched …